| Term | Definition |
|---|---|
| Acrylic Fiber |
"Acrylic fiber production is energy intensive and calls for a heavy consumption of water (Fletcher, 13). Environmental issues surrounding the fiber are unclear, although 'it is thought that a significant number of production chemicals (including the base ingredient acrylonitrile) have a high potential for creating environmental problems if discharged untreated' (Fletcher, 13). Acrylonitrile, the base ingredient in acrylic fiber, may compromise the health and safety of workers without proper safety measures, as 'exposure occurs mostly from breathing it in the air. Acrylonitrile primarily affects the nervous system and lungs' (ATSDR). According to the Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease Registry (ATSDR), 'the Department of Health and Human Services (DHHS) has determined that acrylonitrile may reasonably be anticipated to cause cancer in people' (ATSDR)." (Social Alterations: Fibre Analysis by Mary Hanlon Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-No Derivative Works 2.5 Canada License) |
| Banana Fabric |
Banana trees were widely used for making fabrics before cotton was affordable and readily available. Now “jusi” banana fabric is made in only a handful of places in Southeast Asia. The raw materials come from the stem that farmers leave in the garden after a banana harvest. The tree stalks and leaves are removed and processed into a pliable fibre. Different layers of the stem yield fibers for specific uses: the outer layer's fibers are generally used for tablecloths while the third layer makes the finest, silkiest fabric, suitable for kimonos and saris. Many Nepalese rugs are made from bleached and dried fibers of the banana plant that are hand-knotted into silk-like rugs.( www.ecofashionworld.com) |
| Biodegradable |
Biodegradable is a term applied to products that have the ability to break down safely and relatively quickly by biological means into raw materials, which can be absorbed into the ecosystem. For example wood and bamboo are biodegradable, while plastics are definitely not. (www.whiteapricot.com) |
| Brominated fire retardants |
Chemicals known as PBDE’s used in commercial products such as mattresses, couches and other house household items. They have the tendency to accumulate in human and animal tissue and are considered toxic by Environment Canada. (Dominic Muren, Green's not Black and White ) |
| Carbon Footprint |
The total set of greenhouse gases (GHG) emissions caused by an organization, event or product. For simplicity of reporting, it is often expressed in terms of the amount of carbon dioxide, or its equivalent of other GHGs, emitted. (wikipedia). |
| Cellulose |
Cellulose, the structural component of cell walls in green plants is the most common organic compound on earth and has been used to make fabric and clothing for millennia. Cotton is 90% cellulose and measurements in bamboo vary from 50% to 60% cellulose. Wood is composed of fibers that are 40% to 50% cellulose. |
| Certification Scheme |
A scheme consisting of a certification standard and certification system as related to specified processes to which the same particular scheme applies. The certification scheme should contain at least: a standard; a clearly defined scope; a certification system, including auditor qualifications, audit length and minimum content of audit report |
| Certified Organic |
"Certified Organic" means the item has been grown according to strict uniform standards that are verified by independent state or private organizations. Certification includes inspections of farm fields and processing facilities, detailed record keeping, and periodic testing of soil and water to ensure that growers and handlers are meeting the standards which have been set. Certified organic clothing refers to a seal of approval given to a garment that is made from sustainably and/or ethically recognized organic materials (as per above). Different levels of certification are aligned with different stages of production. (Organic Trade Association) |
| Chromium & Chlorine |
Fabric dyeing and bleaching procedures typically use toxic chemicals like chromium in some wool dyes. Chromium, a heavy metal, threatens our drinking supply when it is not properly disposed of duringthe dyeing process. Chlorine bleaching can be harmful as well; it is been linked to dioxin pollution, which causes birth defects. The leather tanning industry generates 800,000 tons of chrome shavings annually, and much of this chromium waste ends up in landfills. ( mslk.com ) |
| Closed loop system, or closed ecological |
In a closed loop manufacturing system, any waste produced is used at another point in production. Output is used as input. Materials are internally circulated and usage of new materials from outside sources is not necessary. |
| Color Grown Cotton |
Color grown cotton contains no dyes but is grown in natural colors such as honey, red, purple and mocha. South American Natives were known to have used color grown cotton. In the past decade, these color grown cotton fibers have become available for textile manufacturing. (www.ecofashionworld.com ) |
| Conventional Cotton |
Conventional (also known as traditional or commercial) cotton requires more herbicides and pesticeds than any other crop used in textile manufacturing. To bring this delicate plant to harvest, it is heavily sprayed 30 to 40 times a season - in extreme cases with pesticides so poisonous they gradually render fields barren. To create finished goods, fabrics are usually colored with toxic dyes and finished with formaldehyde. Worldwide, conventional cotton farming uses only about 3% of the farmland but consumes approximately 25 percent of the chemical pesticides and fertilizers. In the United States alone, approximately 600 thousand tons of pesticides and chemical fertilizers are applied to cotton fields each season. To complicate matters, insects are quickly becoming resistant to recommended rates of pesticide application and ever increasing amounts are needed be effective. A single t-shirt uses about 9 ounces of cotton, an average of 17 tsp of synthetic fertilizers and nearly a teaspoon of pesticides that are classified as among the most toxic by EPA Cotton farming is the Unites States uses as much as 7kg/hectare of pesticides and 5kg/hectare of herbicides. This is almost 5 times as much as is used to grow corn. Pesticide use can be even higher in less wealthy, developing nations. Many of the pesticides use in cotton production (Metam Sodium, Aldicarb, Malathion and Endosulfan) have been linked to cancer and many other dangerous health conditions. Many of the agents used to spray cotton were originally developed in WWII as nerve gases. |
| Conventional Leather |
While leather is a natural fibre, the processing it entails from raising the livestock and tanning, to garment assembly and distribution, is among the most taxing and environmentally harmful in the world. Categorically speaking, more tanneries are listed on the Environmental Protection Agency’s Superfund list for priority cleanup than any other type of business. In fact, to evade increasingly stringent North American toxicity standards, over 95% of tanneries have moved overseas where regulations are more lenient or altogether undefined. A tannery permanently contaminates the structure and land it occupies, rendering the site - and often neighboring sites - permanently toxic and defunct. The tanning process (the steps taken to convert the putrescible skin into well preserved, highly durable material) involves chemically altering the protein structure of the skin so that it cannot return to rawhide. The use of chromium sulphate began in the mid 1800s, and became popular for the very soft and highly pliable leather it creates. Chemicals involved in the “unhairing” process alone include Sodium sulfide, Sodium hydroxide, Sodium hydrosulfite, Arsenic sulfide, Calcium hydrosulfide, Dimethyl amine and Sodium sulphydrate. Chromium (VI) is the most persistent toxin used by the leather industry. It is a known carcinogen with the following documented human health effects: skin rashes, upset stomachs and ulcers, respiratory problems, weakened immune systems, kidney and liver damage, alteration of genetic material, lung cancer and death (source: Organic Leather) – because of this most tanneries have switched to chromium (III) which is considerably less toxic but it commonly oxidizes into chromium (VI) during the tanning process and so the finished product contains harmful toxins. |
| Conventional Silk |
Silk is a natural protein fiber, some forms of which can be woven into textiles. The best-known type of silk is obtained from cocoons made by the larvae of the mulberry silkworm Bombyx mori reared in captivity (sericulture). The shimmering appearance for which silk is prized comes from the fibres' triangular prism-like structure, which allows silk cloth to refract incoming light at different angles. Wild silks are produced by caterpillars other than the mulberry silkworm and can be artificially cultivated. A variety of wild silks have been known and used in China, South Asia, and Europe since early times, but the scale of production was always far smaller than that of cultivated silks. They differ from the domesticated varieties in color and texture, and cocoons gathered in the wild usually have been damaged by the emerging moth before the cocoons are gathered, so the silk thread that makes up the cocoon has been torn into shorter lengths. Commercially reared silkworm pupae are killed by dipping them in boiling water before the adult moths emerge, or by piercing them with a needle, allowing the whole cocoon to be unraveled as one continuous thread. This permits a much stronger cloth to be woven from the silk. Wild silks also tend to be more difficult to dye than silk from the cultivated silkworm. |
| Corporate Social Responsibility |
Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR), also known as corporate responsibility, corporate citizenship, responsible business and corporate social performance is a form of corporate self-regulation integrated into a business model. Ideally, CSR policy would function as a built-in, self-regulating mechanism whereby business would monitor and ensure their adherence to law, ethical standards, and international norms. Business would embrace responsibility for the impact of their activities on the environment, consumers, employees, communities, stakeholders and all other members of the public sphere. Furthermore, business would proactively promote the public interest by encouraging community growth and development, and voluntarily eliminating practices that harm the public sphere, regardless of legality. Essentially, CSR is the deliberate inclusion of public interest into corporate decision-making, and the honoring of a triple bottom line: People, Planet, Profit. |
"True fashion is about non-toxicity. If fashion pollutes, it should no longer be called fashion, it should be called pollution."
-Horst Rechelbacher, Founder Intelligent Nutrients and AVEDA
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