Our work with hundreds of LOHAS-oriented consumers throughout N. America has led us to define them quite simply as individuals who believe that there is a direct co-relation between planetary health and human wellness.

Why is LOHAS so vitally important to anyone in any business, NGO or governmental sector? First, while the importance of green initiatives cannot be underestimated, LOHAS goes beyond green by placing sustainability in a larger, more universal and holistic context. Secondly, while many are aware that LOHAS is neither fad nor trend, as a mental precept, it represents nothing less than a paradigm shift – possibly as important as the advent of the printing press. A younger generation increasingly says, “This is simply the way we live.”

One becomes LOHAS in various ways, often related to life stage or life cycle events. Often a first pregnancy inspires thoughts of healthier eating. Eventually, young parents might graduate to non-toxic cleaning supplies and ‘natural’ personal care products - and deeper thoughts about the sustainability of the environment. Many age-defying Baby Boomers and Vibrant Seniors live this way in the interest of self-preservation, occasionally at the request of a medical practitioner. Some young adults were raised by LOHAS parents who came of age in the 1960s and 1970s. Some came of age during the Gore (global-warming) years.

There are, indeed, numerous influencing factors: visits to spas or complementary health practitioners, doctors, opinion leaders, friends and relatives, a media obsessed with their ‘green issues,’ business (the “Wal-Mart factor” will be huge in teaching mainstream consumers the vernacular of eco-textiles), advertising, government messages. Schools influence kids and kids influence parents. Travel opens one’s eyes to the beauty and terrible beauty of the world.

It goes without saying, however, that we live in an age of uncertainty and many “fear factors” are accelerating LOHAS. They include:

• food fears (chemical additives, contamination, cloning, hormones, GMOs),
• health fears (rise in cancer, diabetes or obesity), environmental fears (climate change, ecological disasters, pollution, water and food shortages).
• And some of the most affecting of all fears: fears related to children (asthma, allergies, early maturation, autism, childhood obesity and diabetes, ADHD).

Certainly not all LOHAS consumers are cut from the same cloth. Given that consumers tend to adopt LOHAS behaviours according to a series of small incremental steps – we refer to it as “relentless incrementalism” - we segment the market in a way that is sufficiently progressive and dynamic to allow for deepening levels of involvement. As such, we identify those who are “Highly Involved.” The movement from “Becoming” to “Highly Involved” is also a movement from “me to we,” from a pre-occupation with “Me and my family” (health-oriented) through interest in community  (sustainability-oriented), through involvement on a more global level (social justice-oriented) as one progressively broadens his/her repertoire of behaviours and interests. These segments are not linked to demographic factors like age or income.

Note, also, that there are various categories of products adopted at each touchpoint: food, being fundamental and ingested, is the key initial entrée category.

Unfortunately, it generally happens later, among the “Highly Involved” – if at all. While both awareness and purchase of sustainable fibres is clearly growing, it is still a relative laggard – despite all the eco-fashion press, the brave new brands and designers and the hard, hard work of numerous organizations devoted to the development and promotion of better fibers. It is the only category in which the “Highly Involved” often sound like “Becoming Involved” consumers in terms of knowledge and action.

Why? First and foremost, most are unaware of the dangers of conventional textiles: most, including those who live very sustainably on other fronts, still feel that “cotton is natural. ”

There are other reasons:

• Education is difficult owing to the remoteness of production from the consumer: we all know where tomatoes come from but few understand the process from cotton plant to finished shirt
• Fabrics aren’t ingested, like food
• People are unaware of the benefits of purchasing items made with sustainable fabrics: many, for example, are unaware of the soft hand or quality of alternative fabrics. As such, they see no reason to purchase and would rather put their organic dollars to items like organic food, and so forth
• Few are aware that sustainable alternatives, like Lenzing Modal ® or TENCEL ® exist.

Successful current brands tend to preach to the choir rather than the broader audience. However, there is a perception among those aware of sustainable textiles that items are hard to find and, to a lesser degree, are more costly . Further, many aware of sustainable fibres feel that “stylish + sustainable” is an oxymoron, and are essentially styles limited to yogawear and activewear.

There is admittedly much to be happy about. The Organic Trade Association’s annual tracking of organic textile purchase indicates growth of 25-30% per year. The “Wal-Mart” factor could be huge in convincing reticent big apparel brands to ‘think sustainably’ and this can only influence the way the mainstream consumer thinks about textiles. There has indeed been an explosion of books, articles and brands in the past few years. Further, in quantitative research we conducted in 2006, current users of sustainable fibers tended to be younger and without children. Imagine, then, what will happen when they start having children? And imagine, potentially, what will happen when others with children learn about the benefits of sustainable fibres?

It is most important to note, however, that conversion to sustainable textiles is extremely easy. Once consumers are made aware of the problems of conventional textiles, particularly cotton, and exposed to alternatives, they tend to take a very strong interest. The “Highly Involved” often become immediate converts - and even express a willingness to pay a premium.

Two things are clear. First, the message of the eco-textile industry is not necessarily being heard in an effective way. Why are the compelling facts about the conventional textile industry so little known to the consumer? This heightens the need for a more effective voice from the eco-textile industry – because even the choir seems to be having some trouble reading the notes!

Secondly, how long can much of the conventional textile industry sit back and say, “It’s not our problem?” Why the tendency to cast these issues in an “Us versus Them” context, to marginalize sustainability, even with Wal-Mart and Target in hot pursuit?

Large apparel manufacturers tend to worry about the supply chain. They worry that the manufacture of “good” garments could suggest that their other lines are “bad.” Like consumers starting on the LOHAS path, they are overwhelmed by the sheer magnitude of the problems and the complexities of the solutions. Yet, our research shows that even more vigilant LOHAS consumers are quite forgiving of big business: they understand that only small incremental changes will result, eventually, in a realignment of industries like apparel.

It is absolutely clear that the textile/apparel industry overall – including the conventionals - has to take this issue in hand: educate the consumer about these issues in a just and balanced way, remind consumers about the alternatives to conventional cotton and support designers who become more sustainable. They might help consumers make the transition from the engrained “cheap and chic” or “less is more” mantra to the more deliberate acquisition of fewer quality garments. Now with preoccupations about gas prices and the economy top of mind, is it not a good time to teach those lessons?

The consumer is still largely exposed to this issue through ubiquitous articles in the spring “green” issues of consumer fashion and décor magazines: while fun and a positive spin are important, this can only reinforce the view that textiles/apparel are a small accessory to the larger environmental picture. While these publications do a good job of communicating the ‘delights’ of sustainable clothing, the gravitas of the situation – the devastation wreaked by the current North American mode of self-adornment is not (understandably) presented.

We have a 12-step program to help companies and brands appeal to the LOHAS consumer, summarized below:

1. Don’t sell widgets: the apparel industry, in particular (and even eco-apparel), is fond of selling widgets. LOHAS companies sell meaning and context: the higher the involvement in LOHAS, the greater the value attached to everyday objects and consumables.
2. Authenticity is key: a LOHAS brand must speak with its true voice. This refers to ‘authentic ingredients,’ and authentic corporate values.
3. A LOHAS brand or company must be transparent, must confess all, must disclose all. It’s as important to talk about areas in which you can’t be sustainable as describing ways in which you are: this is an antidote to greenwashing. This honest approach works very well with all LOHAS consumers who understand that change is incremental.
4. LOHAS is holistic, multi-dimensional and encompasses many things: ethics, sourcing, transport, human health, ecological footprint, Triple Bottom Line (people, planet, profits), energy use, treatment of animals …
5. Remember, too, that LOHAS operates in three spheres: (a) me, my family and my home, (b) my community and (c) my world: ensure that you are engaged in all spheres and communicate values and initiatives associated with each.
6. Be a guru to this consumer: guide him or her, teach, demonstrate that you understand him or her. (This can lead to a valuable “branded relationship” with the consumer that can increase loyalty.)
7. Simplify and decode this universe for the consumer, particularly the mainstream consumer. Many lack even the basic vocabulary to discuss their needs and values. The plethora of seals and certifications isn’t helping.
8. The LOHAS business model is collaborative, holistic and horizontal . It is not vertical or hierarchical. The “people piece” serves to empower all stakeholders – employees, consumers, suppliers. Form partnerships.
9. If you are a conventional brand, consider communicating relationships with newly acquired LOHAS brands or LOHAS line extensions or new products. This will only reflect well on the corporate halo. Toyota didn’t stop making Tundra when it launched the Prius. LOHAS is increasingly becoming a way of life for many consumers and LOHAS values are increasingly becoming a price of entry for business.
10. There are two sides to the pricing picture: on one hand, “Becoming and Moderately Involved” LOHAS consumers tend to want convenience and affordability in sustainable items. At the same time, LOHAS products are increasingly considered top quality products – and, as such, can command a premium price. Remember that eco-textile products are a more affordable way to indulge in an “eco-luxury” than the purchase of a hybrid car.
11. Consider more grass-roots approaches to advertising and PR. “Local” is very important on all fronts. The Internet is crucial.
12. Remember that a LOHAS Rome wasn’t built in a day – small steps are acceptable. LOHAS consumers understand that the ‘relentless incrementalism’ that characterized their pathway to LOHAS applies equally to business.

Anthropologically, money is never “about” money – it is about social values, psychological values: so, too, apparel is never just “about” apparel or fashion. A focus on the fabric or apparel item alone also risks ignoring a proportion of the overall LOHAS picture: the values piece, the self-actualization piece. It is the language of belief, the language of global values and idealism, the language of collaboration and partnership that ultimately reaches the heart and mind of LOHAS consumers of all levels of involvement.

Read more about Ellen Karp