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Article
By Emma Wang, Fashion Takes Action Intern
This summer, FTA had the pleasure of speaking with sustainable textile designer Stephanie Phillips, who showed us a glimpse into the world of biotechnology in relation to fashion.
Stephanie is a Ryerson Fashion Design grad and the recent recipient of a Master’s degree in Textile Futures from the U.K.’s prestigious Central Saint Martins.
She grew sensitive to the issue of sustainability during her foray into the industry, when she discovered how apathetic fashion companies could be about their environmental impact. She had the desire to do better.
In her own work, Stephanie considers the complete life cycle of a textile, from its fibre source to its post-consumer fate.
Back in her Ryerson days, Stephanie created her final student collection using only natural fibres. It was a straightforward sustainability solution: employ renewable sources that are biodegradable.
She was intrigued, on the other hand, by the sustainability problem of natural/synthetic composite fabrics. For example, a sweater that is a wool and polyester blend can benefit from the characteristics of polyester, which is more resistant to wrinkling, stretching, and abrasion than wool. Unfortunately, the fabric then becomes a mishmash of natural and petrochemical fibres, losing its eco credibility and making it impossible for users to recover one from the other for biodegrading and recycling, respectively.
For Stephanie, this was where a mania for bioplastics became rooted.
Bioplastics differ from conventional plastics in the way that they are made through the use of renewable biological sources rather than petroleum. “...Plants and microorganisms can produce substances like lactic acid, which can be polymerized into bioplastics... polylactic acid, for example” (HowStuffWorks), also known as PLA.
An outline of bioplastic production (Image from Toyota)
While exploring bioplastic production, Stephanie wanted to create more sustainable alternatives for natural/synthetic fabric blends that borrow from the synthetic fibre’s properties.
Her first success has been a substitute for oilcloth, a durable, water resistant material typically made of cotton layered with a PVC (now identified as toxic) coating. It has been commonly used for raincoats, bags, aprons, baby bibs, and furniture coverings, but it can be neither composted nor recycled. Stephanie developed a bioplastic coating in place of the vinyl, derived from the glucose in corn, that is both waterproof and compostable.
Stephanie's bioplastic buttons made using sunflower oil (Image from Une Bicyclette)
Stephanie and I discussed potential sustainability issues surrounding the production of bioplastics, such as energy use and emissions in commercial manufacturing (currently varied), and the existence of mainstream facilities for bioplastic composting and recycling (currently lacking).
A main area of concern was its role in global food security. Afterall, there has been “a major product shift from food to fuel by many of the world’s most productive farm enterprises, caused by subsidies for crops – corn, wheat, sugar and palm oil – that can be turned into energy. (Forty per cent of corn production in Canada is now for fuel, for example.)” (NOW Magazine). Bioplastics can be derived from the same crops, exacerbating the problem; so there is a risk that food prices could rise and sever access to important dietary staples in developing nations.
Stephanie remained optimistic that, on the sustainability agenda, people will always be more important than plastic. Additionally, one must not underestimate the scope of what can be plasticized! To my surprise, she named off a variety of food waste products that have been successfully turned into bioplastics, from orange peels to chicken feathers.
Stephanie recently held a DIY workshop in Toronto as part of Subtle Technologies’ 2011 festival, where attendees could make their own bioplastics using household food starches (corn, potato, tapioca, white rice)- perfect for experimenting designers, artists, or anyone interested in the ethical traceability of the products we use. The average person can’t picture or explain how plastics are made. Stephanie hopes to point out that disconnection while innovating toward a more sustainable future.
Learn more about Stephanie and her work at her website, Une Bicyclette.
For other interesting links about fashion and bioplastics, see:
Suzanne Lee’s BioCouture Garments http://www.ted.com/talks/suzanne_lee_grow_your_own_clothes.html
Puma’s Biodegradable Shopping Bag http://www.ecouterre.com/puma-trades-plastic-bags-for-clever-little-shopper-made-of-corn-starch
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